This bustle band collar shirt features a fabric change at the chest. The chest pocket has pleats, which gives it a three-dimensional look and volume despite the pattern being matched. There are fine gathers (not pleats) in the center of the back. There is patchwork throughout, but all of the patterns are nicely matched, so it has just the right amount of impact. The fabric is a checked twill made from a mix of three different materials. It is unevenly dyed in dark tones, so even the checked pattern can be worn with a mature look. The color is dark brown.